I can't stop thinking about Papua New Guinea

(notnottalmud.substack.com)

209 points | by networked 4 hours ago

28 comments

  • skissane 1 hour ago
    > People still shoot arrows at each other in urban centres

    My mother (who is a doctor, although she's retired now) was part of the medical team who worked on this case: https://www.cbsnews.com/news/arrow-attack-attempted-rape-in-...

    My mother isn't mentioned in that article, but the "Allan Mason" it mentions is her husband

  • vova_hn2 50 minutes ago
    The "Pre-bronze age war between two tribes in West Papua, 1963" video in the article is an embedded tweet. Twitter currently doesn't allow to view it without an account (extensively discussed on HN [0]). Fortunately, it is also available on Youtube [1] (longer version [2]).

    [0] https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=49694296

    [1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNHIP2FJzko

    [2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JI4uirwxx1Y

  • ggm 1 hour ago
    A friend (now a very fine lawyer in London) travelled PNG during an election assisting in some fashion for several weeks if not months. She came home with a crimp in her hair and ridges on all her toe and fingernails from nutritional deficiencies. This is when I realised differences in standards of living were not theoretical.
    • hackernud3s 46 minutes ago
      Malnutrition after 3 weeks? I mean, pack 21 multivitamins.
    • avazhi 16 minutes ago
      > A friend travelled PNG during for several weeks if not months. She came home with a crimp in her hair and ridges on all her toe and fingernails from nutritional deficiencies.

      Gonna press F to doubt on that one, bro. Sounds like you're taking an anecdote and trying to justify your ideological views.

  • broodbucket 52 minutes ago
    Random PNG fun facts: their most watched sporting event is State of Origin, a rugby league competition between two Australian states, over which many people have died in PNG. Australia recently allowed them a team in the NRL, its premier rugby league competition, essentially in exchange for PNG not signing a security agreement with China like the Solomon Islands did.
  • culi 1 hour ago
    Indonesia's dictator Suharto (who was put into power by the US) annexed West Papua in the 60's on behalf of US corporations. Indigenous groups united together to form the Free Papua Movement (OPM) and wage a guerilla war of resistance. The resistance is ongoing and most of West Papua (which is basically a colony) and PNG (which is basically a banana republic) want reunification
    • netsharc 48 minutes ago
      Carved open whole mountains: https://imgsrv2.voi.id/kn25_PwLY-AF-WW29WhOyKglpuHx95_W7T90y...

      In regards to Suharto, it seems the 1965 coup attempt that got him into power was a surprise even to the US embassy in Jakarta, but of course they welcomed it, considering the previous president (Sukarno) was anti-imperialist and was flirting with the 3rd largest communist party in the world (after USSR's and China's).

      Somewhat relatedly, a documentary moviemaker realized what was behind the curtain of Indonesian society and said "it's as if I had wandered into Germany 40 years after the Holocaust only to find the Nazis still in power.". He made a documentary following a man who was sanctioned by the Suharto regime to kill a lot of "communists" in 1960's Indonesia: The Act of Killing (available at e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TDeEObjR9Q ).

      A review:

      > Joshua Oppenheimer’s The Act of Killing is a challenging documentary. It is not only difficult to watch, but it also probes into one of the most grotesque aspects of human nature: the capacity for self-delusion in the face of horrific atrocities. This isn’t a film about history, facts, or statistics; it’s about the memories of the men who killed, the stories they tell themselves, and how they continue to live with the horrors they’ve inflicted on others. The film’s power lies in its ability to take the viewer beyond a surface-level understanding of evil and into the psychological abyss of those who have committed atrocities—and seemingly moved on with their lives.

      From: https://docthisway.com/2024/09/23/the-act-of-killing-review/

      • hermitcrab 43 minutes ago
        I hear 'The Act of Killing' is an amazing film. But I am not sure if I can bring myself to watch it.
  • jtotheh 17 minutes ago
    I was there in '84, I have a page here with pictures and recordings of an interesting encounter. The subjects are from a coastal town though, not the highlands, but they were at the "Highlands Show". https://vin-dit.org/amyours.html
    • jtotheh 10 minutes ago
      Almost forgot - I was at the annual highlands "sing-sing" competition and took a lot of pix, but only really recently got them digitized. They're not that well-preserved etc but there's a ton of them here: https://vin-dit.org/goroka84/gallery1.html
  • mintflow 12 minutes ago
    What a joy to read this article, and the shell dump to the highlanders seems make me know a bit more of how money works and why bitcoin's scarcity make it have that high price
  • pelzatessa 44 minutes ago
    >I can't stop thinking about Papua New Guinea

    Me too, this track is certified classic at this point, cant get it out of my head.

    https://archive.org/download/fsol-papua_new_guinea-vinyl-199...

  • hermitcrab 41 minutes ago
    Fascinating read. I also found the stuff about PNG very interesting in Jared Diamond's 'Guns Germs and Steel'. IIRC he said you could trade and marry with the the tribes in the next valley. But if you want 2 valleys away, they would likely kill you.
  • tthbalazs 1 hour ago
    I used to watch https://www.youtube.com/@MissionaryBushPilot deliver stuff around PNG in a Kodiak. If you're into aviation, the videos are golden
  • a_bonobo 44 minutes ago
    It's really strange how close Papa New Guinea is to Australia (by territory, not people to people) and how little contact there is between the two countries, and how little interest there is. Australians couldn't tell you a thing about PNG, its people, or its politics (except those few who've gone to PNG for mining jobs). Compare with New Zealand - NZ is further away by continental distance, but closer to the main cities of Australia. Completely different relationship.
    • apexalpha 42 minutes ago
      Isn't it still hundreds of kilometers from the mainland?

      The straight of Gibraltar is 10km and barely any Europeans have anything more than superficial knowledge about North-African cultures.

      • jiggawatts 20 minutes ago
        The closest land to PNG in Australia is nearly uninhabited. Northern Queensland may as well be on the Moon. Cape York Peninsula has a population of only 18,000 people! Northern Alaska has significantly more, as a point of comparison.
  • itake 1 hour ago
    PNG is on my list to visit. It’s relatively complex to get to. Most flights either leave from Australia or Jakarta, they don’t run frequently enough to where you will probably spend the night in Jakarta or Australia in order to catch the flight the next day.

    I visited Timor Leste earlier this year and what an interesting country

    • Sharlin 1 hour ago
      It seems astonishing to me that a "relatively complex" intercontinental trip these days means "have to spend a whole night waiting for the next flight".
      • itake 59 minutes ago
        the additional complexity is visas and immigration for that country.

        I’m American, so I have to pay $35 every time I enter Indonesia and I’m limited to the number times per year I can enter the country.

        Australia is easier. Just need to fill out ETA for a $20AUD fee.

        The extra night also eats into your limited vacation time. 18 hours in addition to the 20 hours flying means you’re losing almost 4 days of your trip just transiting.

        Also, my flights aren’t intercontinental. I did this monkey dance going from tp hcmc to Timor Leste.

      • netsharc 38 minutes ago
        I read about a Japanese flying to Indonesia in 1959 (the president of the country was courting her). She flew from Tokyo to Hong Kong, then to Bangkok, then to Singapore before making the last hop to Jakarta.
    • yreg 1 hour ago
      I tend to fly cheaply with multiple transfers/layovers. What I figured out recently is that it is nice to combine the flights in such a way that one of the layovers is _longer_.

      When the airport has a good connection to a major city then 12 hours during the day are enough, but I'm happy to bump it to 2-3 days.

      I have managed to visit some Chinese and Canadian cities this way and it was both more interesting and much cheaper than taking a direct flight.

      • itake 57 minutes ago
        Some travel tools allow you to search for 18+ hour connections.

        I visited Japan, Taiwan, Australia, Hawaii, and Turkey at almost no extra dollar cost. If I like the city I go back.

    • damidekronik 1 hour ago
      Any cool facts to share about Timor Leste? My usual go to - wikipedia - does paint a rather mundane picture of it.
      • itake 53 minutes ago
        I wish I could share photos. Food is insanely cheap. I had street fried chicken, rice, and I think two sides for literally one US dollar.

        Their primary currency usd.

        They have all the child labor problems that other countries in the region have.

        Everybody seems to know each other.

        Unlike French colonialized countries, Vietnam, Timor Leste is proudly and vibrantly Portuguese. Similar to Macau but not as wealthy.

        The public transit system is basically a tiny van that just drives around in loops around the city. You wave the driver down, jump in, and then tap your money against the metal framing when you’re ready to get off (there are no bus stops). I don’t know if you’ve been to Kenya, but it was like very similar to the vans in Kenya, except even smaller.

      • sampullman 1 hour ago
        What's your criteria for mundane? Basically every decent sized island in that part of the world is going to have beautiful beaches, coral reefs, mountains, and jungles.
      • FabHK 1 hour ago
        Crypto scammers have long operated in Cambodia, Philippines, Myanmar after being kicked out of China, and were looking to go to Sri Lanka and Timor Leste next - but Timor Leste's politicians and population got together and fought back successfully, it seems:

        https://theconversation.com/asias-scamming-gangs-target-timo...

        (More on those scam factories: https://theconversation.com/it-seemed-like-a-good-job-at-fir...

        And from The Economist - lamentably paywalled: https://www.economist.com/audio/podcasts/scam-inc)

        • itake 49 minutes ago
          I actually visited abandoned scam centers a couple weeks ago in Bavet, Cambodia. It’s really eery now.

          All the units had air conditioning units, which I thought was sweet, considering many Cambodians don’t have that. But the prison bars on the windows and barbed wire surrounding the complex was a bit uncomfortable to see.

    • nephihaha 1 hour ago
      It sounds like it is easy to get to Port Moresby (which is apparently a bit of a dump and very dangerous), but difficult to get anywhere else.

      PNG has changed very rapidly. Parts of the country were in the Stone Age within living memory and are moving over.

      • itake 48 minutes ago
        ChatGPT advised me to not even leave the Port Moresby airport and to fly immediately to one of the small domestic fishing towns for safety reasons.
  • cinkhangin 1 hour ago
    This is those articles that I would just skip but I didn't...very interesting
  • mtrlbs 1 hour ago
    That was a great read !
  • contingencies 12 minutes ago
    I have a small collection of traditional PNG artifacts. Spears, masks, oars, axes, etc. I really like them and consider them generally very under-valued as evidence of the dominant technologies over the majority of human history.

    Some good places to see them are the Asian Museum in Lisbon, the Wereldmuseum in Rotterdam, the Ethnology Museum in Berlin.

  • mike_tyson 1 hour ago
    two great films in PNG are joe leahy's neighbours and black harvest

    really excellent insight into society and values there as it meets capitalism

  • nephihaha 1 hour ago
    One of my parents' friends had spent a lot of time doing research in PNG as well as remote parts of South America. He was the nearest real life equivalent to Indiana Jones I've ever met. He told us some wild stories about the place. He would have been old enough to see the place when cannibalism was still around.
  • yreg 1 hour ago
    There was a discussion on it here yesterday: https://old.reddit.com/r/slatestarcodex/comments/1wfdnus/why...
  • karel-3d 1 hour ago
    I have read somewhere that the cannibalism claims are overrated and kind of artificially inflated by the natives. (Most natives are actually Christian.) I have not looked closely into it though.

    Unrelated. We have servers across the world; one in Mount Hagen. It has by far the biggest latency in the world; so I always use it as a "benchmark"; if it works in Mount Hagen, it works everywhere.

    • Modified3019 43 minutes ago
      I visited Papua among some other places ~20 years ago. The steep elevation changes and extreme rain and infinitely deep mud means roads to many areas aren’t viable, will rapidly degrade if built, or there simply isn’t anything worth building a road to. You can see on Google Maps areas void of settlements. So I rode a twin engine Aztec into fuck knows where anymore, hiked barefoot through muddy rainforest, and met some Korowai. Treehouses, sago grubs and all.

      From what I learned from groups that work with the Korowai, the cannibalism stuff was very real at one point, but wasn’t really something they liked to do. It was a matter of fear, superstition and ritual, rather than a method of substance.

      My poorly remembered summary (take with a grain of salt): if someone got sick, it was because of a witch doctor or someone possessed by an evil spirit putting a curse on them. Only way to deal with the curse/evil spirit) was the find the caster (through torture of course) and kill and eat them. If you just kill them the evil spirit will keep being a problem, ritually eating them is what actually disperses the evil. Naturally, intertribal violence also gets mixed into that to blur lines.

      At some point long prior to my arrival, the Indonesian government managed to get consistent enough access to the area to start governing the area to a degree. One of it’s first priorities was convincing them to stop the practice, which sometimes involved the ever classic “gather them around, shoot one of their pigs and let them consider it carefully” method of persuasion when some were persistent about continuing.

      So while cannibalism wasn’t completely gone at that time, in practice it was then mostly a story to tell curious and generous visitors. The Korowai greatly prefer instant ramen packets in any case.

      Beautiful and interesting area if you have a naturalist bent, though otherwise not a place to go if you have a normal idea of “fun”.

      I’m not generally a tropical/heat guy, but Indonesia is a country that I sometimes think of returning to.

    • sampullman 1 hour ago
      I randomly had a conversation with a guy at a bar in Taipei who was an administrator during the transition to self rule, and he said basically the same thing.

      He said about many of the tribes modernized within a generation or two, and the ones that didn't still dropped the cannibalism stuff in the 50s.

    • defrost 25 minutes ago
      Kuru: the science and the sorcery is a film worth looking into, it tracks the work of Australian medical researcher Michael Alpers from 1961 onwards.

      ~ https://www.screenaustralia.gov.au/screen-guide/kuru-the-sci...

    • Arnt 47 minutes ago
      I had to look that up. Wow. Does someone rent out rack space in Mount Hagen, or how did you come to have a server there?
    • stingraycharles 1 hour ago
      I’ve just asked a friend of mine who lives in PNG and yeah, this definitely happened. Nowadays it doesn’t happen anymore except potentially in some insanely remote areas.

      Supposedly the Japanese during WW2 also resorted to cannibalism.

    • burner420042 1 hour ago
      Servers for mining companies?

      Just curious if the hospital still exists there. Do you know?

  • kijin 1 hour ago
    > So nearly all groups eventually internalized a similar set of norms, a similar food culture and similar political institutions, without ever being part of the same political unit.

    They managed to achieve eventual consistency in a distributed system, thousands of years before we even thought of it.

  • avazhi 20 minutes ago
    > They were having bow and arrow battles as late as 1963

    They still do this, in fact.

  • lifestyleguru 1 hour ago
    lol don't go there it's a trap. Civilization, despite all these people, is good.
  • avadodin 1 hour ago
    This article makes me angry about colonialism, misrepresentation of genetic studies and just-so pseudo-scholars.

    But still. Gourds up. Highlander pride worldwide.

  • wswin 16 minutes ago
    What a useless title
  • mig1 50 minutes ago
    >some random Aussie stumbles upon the highlands and discovers a million people living there

    Coloniser's mindset much? Finding out people live in a place where is not the same as discovering Penicillin.

    • zemvpferreira 45 minutes ago
      This virtue signalling where everything surrounding an indigenous people or other minority must be handled with the fluffiest epistemological gloves is really exhausting. Can the author describe his own personal wonder at discovering this factoid (maybe with the same wonder as when he learned about penicillin in fact) without being de facto labeled a racist?
    • doginasuit 34 minutes ago
      A group of people find out another group of people exist and react with surprise. That's not a mindset, it's been happening since ever since there were people.

      Jumping at every opportunity to apply a moral perspective just undermines its credibility.

  • CarlitosHighway 38 minutes ago
    How adult people (and more often than not Anglo-Saxons) can non-ironically publish tracts like this which are no different from a middle schooler's "I read about Disneyland and it's really really awesome, you guys!" is another symptom of Idiocracy being a documentary.
    • pornel 34 minutes ago
      or perhaps The Proper English has been adopted by LLMs, so now real people have to write like middle-schoolers to avoid being accused of publishing slop.